I trust Jim—he communicates when he’s concerned. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds climb the final section of the Nose during their record-breaking El Capitan ascent. Kaplina reached the top of a 15-metre-high (49-foot) wall in 6,964 seconds, becoming the second woman in the history of the sport to climb the course in less than seven seconds. The Indonesian beat the previous record holder Yi Ling Song of China in the … The pair broke the previous record, set in 2010 by Dean Potter and Sean Leary, by almost 13 minutes. © 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, © 2015- The last time she held the record was in 2017 until in April of that year YiLing Song got 7.101 seconds at the IFSC Climbing … “We didn’t know how many more laps we had left in us, and there were a lot of climbing parties on the wall.”. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. In the finals, Kaplina took bronze over Aleksandra Kalucka of Poland. Hans Florine is a professional climber, writer, photographer, and outdoor guide who holds numerous speed records in outdoor climbing, from sport routes to alpine ascents. The Rostrum is my all time favorite free solo. 7.32 . I’m more of an all-arounder. “I don't think the record will last long, but it's nice to get the race started again.”. YiLing Song (CHN) - IFSC World Cup Chongqing, China. He soloed the 13-pitch route in 34 minutes and 51 seconds, beating out the late Brad Gobright’s record by nearly four minutes. “We had discussed bailing that morning,” says Reynolds. This time, Honnold returned to El Capitan to climb the nose and regain the speed record. What was your strategy for shaving down time? Had you talked strategy with Alex Honnold and Hans Florine? Who: Hans Florine and Peter Croft. Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl has claimed a new speed record for climbing 18,506-foot Mt. During a later ascent of this same route, Reynolds and Gobright would beat Alex Honnold and Hans Florine's speed record. InternatIonal FederatIon oF Sport Climbing www.ifsc-climbing.org!! Marcin Dzienski took the bronze medal, winning the small final in 5.596 seconds for a new men’s European record. I was lured in by the speed record because it was such a different type of challenge. This competition marked Iran’s first IFSC Gold medal. Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright complete a speed climb up the Nose on El Capitan. BG: We're both pretty bold, but we also know our limits and when to draw the line. It’s nice to know he probably won’t fall during a route, whether it’s 5.9 or 5.11+. BG: Same as always: we asked some Europeans if we could go first. The psychological crux was the “Lynn Hill Traverse.” There was tons of slack in the rope and I hadn’t clipped any gear; it would have been a 150-foot fall. And he doesn’t do anything that could kill us. Companies / manufacturer of certified Speed world record equipment. We also avoided using cams and nuts [protective gear], and only added one sling. GPS technology, however, can be fraught with errors. We took a selfie, posted it on Facebook, and hiked back down. Honnold and climbing partner Hans Florine held the previous speed record for the route at 2:23:46. A couple cool shots taken by @christian_cattell of @chimney_jim and I on the last hundred feet of the Nose. Our method was dangerous, but we could have dialed it back at any point. The Nose was the first route Jim and I ever did together. No Joke. For four years he served as the executive director … For me, parts of the “Great Roof,” “Pancake Flake,” and “Glowering Spot” were the most physically demanding. Stangl raced up the mountain in 5 hours 18 minutes, starting from the Azau ski area at 7,150 feet—that’s more than 2,100 vertical feet an hour, the first two-thirds on skis and the rest with crampons. The last time she held the record was in 2017 until in April of that year YiLing Song got 7.101 seconds at the IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing. There were dozens of spots where I could have fallen over 100 feet, and plenty of ledges to strike. The routes are arranged west to east, that is from the West Face to the East Buttress. Any nerves as you approached the base of the Nose? Over the following decades, the record was broken 18 times, often by some of the most respected big-wall specialists of their generations. 1998:13,8 km@8,1%---36:20---average speed 22.79 km/h(Marco Pantani)-RECORD ---36:33---average speed 22.65 km/h(Tonkov-Zulle) ... Search for a climb/rider. Jim Reynolds climbs up the Nose on El Capitan, while Brad Gobright follows close behind. Brad and I started trying again this September once he’d healed. Last week, Alex Honnold reported that he has broken the speed record on Epinephrine (5.9), a 13-pitch route in Red Rock, Nevada. BG: I'm not going to try again—it's really dangerous. It's a steep and splitter wide hand crack just to the right of the original corner. Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell introduce us to one of the most coveted prizes in the climbing world: the speed record on The Nose route up the 915m El Capitan in Yosemite, California. Brad short-fixed me on the first four pitches, and I fixed him on a lot of the higher ones. Which sections were the toughest for each of you? To the best of my knowledge, these are the most up to date speed climbing records for on the Big Stone, Yosemite's incomparable El Capitan! The holds are designed so that climbers can grab onto specific areas according to their strengths and needs, and so that they function for both hands and feet. Do you think you’ll try to break your own record? Previous Women's World Records . She set a new world record in her qualification round win, with a time of 6.964 seconds. I play the mandolin, too. . Russian climbing queen Iuliia Kaplina proved she could easily give Spiderman a run (or perhaps a climb) for his money as she broke the women’s world speed record at the IFSC European Championships in Moscow. 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. This is a cool variation called The Uprising. Climbers Crush 'Unbeatable' Speed Record on El Capitan, https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/speed-record-climb-yosemite-el-capitan-the-nose-honnold.html, the first and only climber to free solo El Capitan. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. CURRENT WORLD RECORD: Women's 15m Speed. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) – IFSC World … BG: We were nervous because a week earlier, our friend Quinn took a big fall on the route and got very injured. Once we broke into the 2:20s, we knew that any small mistake could blow an attempt. I think I'm moving to Las Vegas for the winter to climb in the desert. We spoke with Gobright and Reynolds about their record-breaking ascent. 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Alex Honnold solos the Nose on El Capitan in California's Yosemite National Park. Reza Alipour Shenazandifard (Persian: رضا علیپور شنازندی فرد ‎, born 29 َApril 1994) is an Iranian speed climber from Qazvin.He is titled the Asiatic cheetah (Genius) and the "Vertical World's Fastest Man." A speed climbing wall is an artificial standardised climbing wall and is the main apparatus used for competitive speed climbing.. For such competitions - including those in the Olympics 2020 - the speed climbing wall has been normed by the IFSC in a way that records are comparable. And I may have done some dry heaving. BG: They both gave us great advice. 30th April 2017 . Speedklettern ist eine der drei Hauptdisziplinen des wettkampfmäßigen Sportkletterns. Just before dawn on Saturday, Gobright started up the wall, followed by Reynolds. What inspired you guys to chase the speed record for the Nose? Hill Record: 22.58 (Martin Groves, 2008, British Hill Climb Championship) The Shelsley Walsh Speed Hill Climb is a hillclimb in Shelsley Walsh, Worcestershire, England, organised by the Midland Automobile Club (MAC). Reza Alipour set the current Men’s Speed Climbing World recordof 5.48 seconds on the 30th of April 2017 at the Nanjing event of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. Watch Iuliia Kaplina breaking the Speed Climbing Record. What’s next? Every season I’ve been in the [Yosemite] Valley, I’ve sought new adventures. JR: No crying or hugging, but I screamed a bit. Kaplina has set the speed record multiple times. The … Iuliia Kaplina has set the speed record multiple times - sometimes overtaking herself without competition. For about 85 percent of it, if one of us fell, we could have been seriously injured or killed. Taking part in the qualification … I led the first half of the climb and Jim led the second half. When did you start working on this project? Maybe the hardest physical thing I've ever done. If the Empire State Building and Chrysler Building were stacked next to it, the Nose would loom above them for another 10 stories. @gramicci, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 22, 2017 at 2:09pm PDT. The first time I came to Yosemite, I wanted to get on it. We just sprawled out for a few minutes without speaking. Russia’s Yulia Kaplina set a new world record at the ongoing International Federation of Sport Climbing's (IFSC) European Championships in Moscow on Saturday. Ok, so what happened that day on the wall? Naturally, I give a little extra attention to the greatest rock climbing route in the world. All Mt. Then, last February, Brad broke one of his ankles while climbing near Vegas. This site uses cookies. He was a U.S. National Champion in Difficulty and Speed Climbing, a World Champion in Speed Climbing, and a three-time gold medalist in Speed Climbing at the X Games. By accepting cookies you can optimise your browsing experience. 29/04/14 IFSC Speed License Rules - Page!2!on!32 ! Talented pups skip rope and study math, No more anti-maskers! BG: By the end of last fall, we knew we could possibly get it this season, which added to our stress. It’s steep and sustained, so we couldn’t rest. Pairs of experienced climbers are lucky to finish it in four days. Usually, 80 percent of the climbers on the Nose are Europeans. We marked some holds with chalk, did slower runs to dial in [the most challenging] crux sections, and studied videos of previous ascents. JR: “Hard” comes in a few varieties up there: scary stuff, time-consuming stuff, and physical challenges. Time: 4h 22m. Unless we were on a difficult section, we kept a ton of slack in the rope. I've descended El Cap so many times … now I'm going to do some mountain biking and safe climbing. Ein Versuch der „Huberbuam“, Alexander Huber und Thomas Huber, diesen Rekord zu verbessern, ist Gegenstand des preisgekrönten Dokumentarfilms Am Limit von Regisseur Pepe Danquart aus dem Jahr 2006/2007. Iranian climber Reza Alipour Shenazandifar, nicknamed The Asiatic Cheetah, set the world 15m record of 5.48s in April of 2017. PREPARED BY IFSC Sport Department . Everest speed climbing record-claims are time-unverified, meaning that there were no people who timed the speed climbs from the start to the summit. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) - The World Games 2017, Wroclaw, Poland . Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA) - IFSC World Cup Xiamen, China. I have so much to process before I’ll understand what this experience means to me. Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964) is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valleys El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. In April 2019, YiLing Song from China set the women’s record … The route begins at the foot of El Capitan and follows the center prow 2,900 vertical feet to the wall’s tip. Including the approach and descent, Honnold completed the outing in a mere 1:59:57. Rahayu set a new women's speed climbing record at 6.995 seconds, also being the first woman to break the 7 second mark. BG: The “Boot Flake.” It's super runout—falling there would mean death. Han's last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), on June 17, … Blog archive 2020 (29) November (3) Roglic wins La Vuelta on the windy Covatilla; New Angliru TOP 50: Fast new generation arrives ; Ultra-mythical Hugh Carthy conquers the Angliru! In this final section our stoke was high as we knew we had it in the bag! Some experts linked this activity to horizontal level walking and running wherein the higher the velocity, the shorter is the contact time and the higher are the reaction forces. Dabei geht es darum, im Toprope gesichert in möglichst kurzer Zeit eine vorgegebene Route zu erklettern. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. All rights reserved. As governed by the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing), speed climbing involves an explosive race up a 15m tall wall. Later, the two would complete this route in record-breaking time. I'm stoked to pour some energy that direction. JR: We mainly simul-climbed. Most climbers considered Honnold and Florine’s time unbeatable. I want to focus on hard free-climbing. Sweet shot by @_drew_smith_ P.S Jim and I broke into the 2:20s on the Nose today with a time of 2:29:39, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 18, 2017 at 6:27pm PDT. I returned to Yosemite in April, put in some relaxed laps, and those helped me learn the route’s intricacies. Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. Also, none of the climbers used alternate, objective, time-verification methods, such as GPS technology. Racers compete against each other side by side in order to reach the top and ‘ring the bell’ fastest.Speed Climbing is a combination of strength and precision. After each attempt, we walked down the back of El Capitan and discussed improvements. 7.10. JR: Usually my “early morning dread” fades by the time I get to the base of the Nose, but since Quinn's accident, I haven’t been able to shake my fear until I start climbing. We only climbed as fast as we could safely justify. Climbing the “Stovelegs” was exhausting, too. 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This experience means to me 5.9 or 5.11+ also being the first route Jim and I started trying this...